As I said in my last post, I have decided to use the 6PAC format for each season to give my sewing some focus.
Here is the second item of Summer. It’s also my entry to the Summer Spark Sewalong.
This is the classic Chanel style collarless jacket, here I am hiding modestly from the camera( actually hiding my conjunctivitis!) I bought some linen/cotton boucle fabric on ebay last year and have been summoning up the courage to make it up all this time. I actually planned to quilt it, but took the easy way out and lined it conventionally.
Last Autumn I traced out the pattern, basing it on a size 10 at the shoulders, doing a 3/4″ FBA, and grading out to about a 12 at the bottom. I made a black wool wearable muslin which I wore to my mother’s funeral. It was quite a reasonable fit, but a little loose.
The challenge of this fabric was the plaid which I don’t think is a symmetrical one. Also the colours change across the width of the cloth, a stripe that starts out green changes to pink part way. I cut out each piece as a single layer, and tried to match the horizontal stripes. I also endeavoured to mirror the fronts. I’m not really skilled enough to match up the sleeves as well, but I’m fairly pleased with them.
The pocket welts are a bit off, but I’m not quite sure why, maybe I didn’t take the seam allowance into account?
I used some almond satin lining which was horribly ravely! It wouldn’t be overlocked or zigzagged, so I have left the seams unfinished. I zigzagged all the boucle edges before I started. I basted the jacket together and tried it on for fit before sewing any seams, all that need adjusting was the front princess seam which I took in about 1/4″ over the bust. It’s a close fit, the sleeves are very snug, but that’s a feature of this pattern,I believe. The sleeves eased in pretty well, with shaving a little more off the cap. I also took a 7/8″ seam allowance at the neck edge to make the neck just a little lower; I have a shortish neck and a close fitting neckline doesn’t flatter me.
I stitched a sparkly pink and green braid around the edges to finish. This type of fabric is easy to hand sew as the weave is so open, your stitches don’t show, so you don’t have to be very careful. It only took a couple of hours to sew 4 metres.
I’m more pleased with this than I thought I would be, part way through the project, it will definitely be a true summer staple. I’ve ordered some gold chain to make the back hang a little better, and will post a photo when that’s done. There’s a wool boucle cut out in my stash so I’ll be making that up this winter.
Also I want to try a proper Chanel jacket ,quilting, handmade braid, Linton Tweed,the works. That will have to wait until next year, the schedule (and finance)doesn’t allow it until then.