I wanted to make a proper winter coat this season, and found this Burda pattern was just what I was looking for. It has a high collar to keep out the wind and it’s nice and long.
I found some nice camel wool on Ebay and decided on faux Chinchilla for the collar and cuffs (also bought on Ebay).
I cut a size 38 grading to 42 at the hip, and made a muslin(of course). This showed me I needed to narrow the front shoulder and narrow the entire back. I also had a bit of swayback. Naturally none of this was a surprise, so I removed 1/2″ from the front, a 1/2″ strip from each back panel, and 1″ swayback from just above the waist. I added this back the hem at the bottom. This seems to be my standard alteration package from Burda and Burdastyle, so at least that shows consistent drafting. I had to shorten the coat by 5inches, those models are tall!
The instructions are fairly clear, but I wouldn’t want to make a coat without additional resources.When making a coat or jacket I turn to my favourite book on Tailoring-available on Amazon!
The order of construction on this coat is slightly different in that you do not assemble the bodice and then attach the skirt. Because there are seams to match up, the centre back bodice is attached to the centre panels of the skirt first. The bodice darts needed adjusting to line up with the front skirt seam. All the other seams matched up.
I decided to make bound buttonholes instead of snap fasteners as suggested for view B, as I can’t find any nice ones. I tried experimenting by covering with lining fabric but so far my results look dreadful. This pattern has the facing as part of the front so there is no separate piece. This made it easier to line up the buttonholes with their facing windows! The bound buttonholes and the facing windows were made before I sewed the bodice to the skirt.
I added extra tailoring by including a back stay and taping the back neck for stability.
I also made a chest piece from the same fusible interfacing used on the facing and hems.
My newest technique required the sacrifice of two of my husband’s silk ties. I cannibalised them for the interfacing (he hasn’t noticed yet.) I wanted to try this way of easing in the sleeves, and I was amazed. The technique is clearly explained in the book, you cut a 12″ x 2″ true bias strip and sew it to the inside of the sleeve head, pulling on the strip and pushing on the sleeve which pulls the sleeve seam in that crucial bit. You then sew in the sleeve as usual.
I made my own shoulder pads as shown on Brian Sews .
I have never used faux fur before,but it turned out to be quite easy. Of course the fur covers up any irregularity in the seams. My machine coped ( just) with the thickness, although I had to help it along by pulling on the fur. I made the collar the original height, but when I tried it on, I looked ridiculous. I just don’t have the swan neck of the models on the envelope. I sewed another seam losing over an inch in height; that was much better.
You can see the pockets here, they are quite big enough to put your hands in, but look discreet.
I’m very pleased with this coat; I got the accolade of “Very Nice” from Mr Starryfish!
I had some fur left over so I looked around for a pattern for a hat. Sew2Pro has a simple one. It took me only an hour and half to make this lovely one.
So here I am ready for more snow! It’s very cosy to wear, and not as heavy as I thought it would be.